Today’s distance / 今日の走行距離: 17.6km
Average speed / 平均速度: 12.9km/h
Time on skateboard / 走行時間: 1h 21m
Total skateboarding distance to date / 今までスケボで走った距離: 839.23km(plus 428.5km)
Total cycling distance to date / 今まで自転車で走った距離: 11,800km
Had a shiner of a headache this morning. The moral of the story is that I need to drink more water. Obviously 4 litres during the day yesterday wasn’t enough. I slept well enough, although getting to sleep was tough. My heartbeat was well over my usual resting norm, so the long day yesterday was obviously getting to my system.
Bram, a reader of my bolg for some time now, had contacted me while I was in Vlissingen, and offered for me to stay with him and his family on my way to the ferry near Rotterdam. Bram is a human powered vehicle fan, and owns one of the finer examples of such technology.
Once I had eaten breakfast and taken a painkiller, I was on my way to Bram’s small town just a few kilometers north of Rotterdam.
The cycle friendliness of The Netherlands certainly does not cease in the big cities. Coming into Rotterdam is a tunnel just for cyclists and other human powered vehicles, running under the main shipping canal.
Cycle paths right into the city centre led me to the Rotterdam Maritime Museum, a large open air ode to past times in the industry.
I wandered around there for a good hour or so, occassionally thinking how much my late granddad would have loved the place. He loved his ships!
I was amazed at the cost of food in Rotterdam. So cheap. One Euro per kilo for bananas. The cheapest I have seen so far in The Netherlands is 1.60. One euro for 500g of Cadbury’s chocolate! This was all at a huge market in the centre.
I arrived at Bram’s place at about 3pm. After a few intorductions it was down to business. It was time to experience good concentrated Dutchness. Hold onto your seats…
Windmills galore at Kinderdiyke, a premium tourist attraction in the Rotterdam region. The small area is home to about 16 different windmills, all used in past ages to pump water from out of the lowlying land. Quite fascinating indeed.
Nowdays, water is transported with huge augers up and over the dykes.
And of course, no visit to Bram could be complete without trying out his velomobile.
These things are custom made to the rider’s dimensions. Obviously I am a little smaller than Bram…
Today’s distance / 今日の走行距離: 103km
Average speed / 平均速度: 14.4km/h
Time on skateboard / 走行時間: 7h 08m
Total skateboarding distance to date / 今までスケボで走った距離: 821.61(plus 428.5km)
Total cycling distance to date / 今まで自転車で走った距離: 11,800km
Hold me back, people. 103km on a skateboard in one day. Very happy, I am. This distance was assisted by this:
and this:
That is, howling tailwinds and smooth as silk cycle paths.
But what is exciting is that the roads weren’t 100% smooth, and the wind wasn’t always at my back. For a large part of the day I was fighting massive side winds or rough cycle paths. It was the 50km or so of smooth eastward cycle paths toward Rotterdam at the end of the day that really helped the distance tally along. Just give me a good solid tailwind all day, and things could get really exciting.
The day started a bit tough. After four days off, it felt like I was learning to ride the board again. The North Sea coast was unrelentingly gusty. I was happy for the kite surfers, if not a little jealous not to have my own kite.
This part of The Netherlands, Zeeland, is just breathtaking. The civil engineering feats that have been acheived are phenominal. Massive dykes protect the low lying land behind them from the vicious North Sea.
Just seach for Zeeland or Vlissingen in Google Earth and have a gander northeast along the North Sea coast. You’ll notice a number of large islands all connected by a series of what look like bridges. These are actually dykes, some of which, like the one pictured above, can open and close with the tide. On either side of these collosal man made features are wind turbines making the most of the ever present wind, blades straining to keep straight against the pressure of the gales.
Now my big day would not have been, had it not had been for Wim and his family in Vlissingen over the last few days. Thank you for just letting me rest and take it easy. My heels that got a rough time through Germany were well and truely healed from their blisters. Thank you and thank you again.
Well I contacted the maker of the skateboard I am riding today in the hope that they could give me some clues as to whether these cracks in the deck could pose problems in the future…
Not too pretty, and a little disconcerting. The reply came quick from www.rollsrolls.com founder and engineer/craftsman Peter – a reply by email the very same day. The loads that I am putting the board under (about 90kg all up with me and my lugguage) are not overload. The cracks are in the most stressed part of the board, but if neccessary it looks as though Rolls Rolls will replace the deck.
So, I will keep my eyes on the cracks over the next few days and see what happens.
Upon hearing that there would be people riding horses and playing with long spears in the middle of town today, I was hoping for some good old fashioned blood and guts gladiator-type entertainment. The lack of such gore was made up by the sheer skill of the local heroes ‘spearing’ their lances through impossibly small rings at full gallop.
There were hundreds of horses in the open square, and as many riders. Only one person can be crowned champion, so as each group of riders completes a round, the rings get progressively smaller, with the best riders aiming their lances at rings as small as 15mm in diameter.
The event seemed like an important happening on the local calendar, and attracts a big audience. The winners of each age and skill category were awarded with a trophy, and a bit of good old fashioned life threatening throwing and catching, done by highly skilled riders, their strength augemented by a good dosage of beer which was consumed in as large a quantity as their control over their lance would allow during the course of the competition.
We rode the few kilometers from the Harwig’s place to town on bicycles. Wim and I on recumbents. It was a great feeling to be on a recumbent again. Wim is on his lowrider that he uses to commute to work – a solid 20km each way commute. The bike is stainless steel with a spacious fairing at the back made from plywood. Great for the flat cycle paths of Holland.
Topping off the afternoon out was another delicious Dutch delight – Olieballs. The dictionary translation is ‘donut balls’. Donut dough cooked in a ball. No wonder the Dutch are so fond of their bicycles – you need a good dose of exercise after some of their food.
Another restful day here in Vlissingen with the Harwigs. Among other things, we went into town and visited a candy shop. Delicious lollies of all varieties tempted the eyes and tastebuds…
A relaxing day here at the Harwig’s place, updating the website, and in the evening going for a walk on the beach in the strong wind.
Dinner was a simple but delicious dish consisting of lettuce, potato, and a big dollopping of buttermilk sauce with bacon on top. A Dutch staple, apparently. Jolly good.
Today’s distance / 今日の走行距離: 42.9km
Average speed / 平均速度: 11.5km/h
Time on skateboard / 走行時間: 3h 43m
Total skateboarding distance to date / 今までスケボで走った距離: 718km (plus 428.5km)
Total cycling distance to date / 今まで自転車で走った距離: 11,800km
I am here.
After exactly one year and three days on the road, I am on the other side of the Eurasian continent. The significance of this sight filled me with emotion and tears came to my eyes. I hardly remember what the sea looked like in Japan. I only had eyes and a mind for what was up ahead. Now this is what filled my vision.
I never really thought or imagined that I would ever see this. For a New Zealand kid from Invercargill, Southland, places like this are so far away. And here I am, having arrived here mostly under my own steam.
18,500km in total.
12,000km by bicyle.
1,000km by skateboard.
5,500km by train.
Today was not without it’s trials however. The westerly wind was still blowing strong, and my feet were in no better shape than last night. The small and yet rather significant blisters on my heels were giving me grief.
The moleskin repair job to take pressure off the blister didn’t last long. I was keen just to remove the skin off the top of the blister and be done with it, but the blister appears to be a rather complicated one. Numerous small blisters one on top of the other meant that there was no simple flap of skin to remove. There was no other choice…
20km later skating in socks, I was in Vlissingen. It was slow going, but at least I didn’t have the agony of the sore blisters rubbing against my boots.
I think the blisters were caused by a combination of factors. Dirty socks (unwashed for two weeks), extra effort pushing against the wind, and lack of proper rest for the last two weeks. Hopefully I can avoid this in the future…
I met Wim Harwig, a long time reader of my blog, and fellow recumbent rider, in Vlissingen. It was great to meet him after all this time on the road. I will be staying at his wonderful handbuilt home for a few days before moving on.
So, what now?
The plan is to head up to the Hook of Holland, near Rotterdam on Monday. I have booked a place on a ferry from the Hook of Holland to Harwich, leaving on Wednesday the 1st of August. Harwich is about 120km from London central, so I expect that I will be at Trafalgar Square in the morning of Saturday the 4th of August at 9am, arriving on my longboard.
So at 9am, Saturday the 4th of August, 2007, just over one year after I left Japan, I will have reached my goal.
If you’re in the area, feel free to drop on by.
Today’s distance / 今日の走行距離: 63.6km
Average speed / 平均速度: 11.4km/h
Time on skateboard / 走行時間: 5h 35m
Total skateboarding distance to date / 今までスケボで走った距離: 675.93km (plus 428.5km)
Total cycling distance to date / 今まで自転車で走った距離: 11,800km
Today it began. Before I even got up out of the cold dark building, I could see the trees bending towards the east. Considering that I had to travel to the west meant that it was not a good sign. A strong westerly wind. A wind in the face.
My spirits were high however. The wind so strong that one could only laugh. It was here that I realised that I had broken through the four week barrier. After four weeks on the road, I feel as though I am ready to knuckle down and do this. No more inner complaining that I’m moving so much slower than when I was on the bike. No more complaining about rough roads. Just acceptance. This is how it’s going to be. Headwind included. Just do your five and a half hours, Rob.
I followed the canal up until Wuustwezel, where I sheltered in the public library on the computers for an hour. The friendly library staff fed me coffee, and almost apologetically kicked me out at noon when the library closed for an hour.
I carried on into the wind to Kalmthout where I cooked up spaghetti for lunch. Today I experimented with spaghetti and mayonase. Simple, heaps of energy, and tasty. I’ll keep that on the menu, I think.
From Kalmhout it was through the beautiful Stappersven Marsh area.
Against the westerly that thretened to stop cyclists and skateboarders alike in their tracks, I managed to make it to Hoogerheide in The Netherlands – back to the friendly atomosphere of the Dutch.
From Hoogerheide it was on to Zeeland. This vast, windswept flat area reminded me a lot of Canterbury in New Zealand. Getting a good view from a high bridge over a massive canal, you could see all the windbreaker tree lines along the edges of paddocks on the flat land.
The view was moving. Everything on such a massive scale. Massive man-made structures pitted themselves against the unrelenting wind.
It is everything I imagined The Netherlands to be. I unreservedly rate this country as one of the most fascinating and moving countries I have travelled through thus far.
By 6:30pm I was finished. Mentally ready to continue, my body was saying no. With the wind so strong against me, I have to push so many more times to attain the same speed as if there was no wind. This takes it’s toll on my feet, and I could feel blisters forming on the back of my heels. I found an empty shed in an orchard and settled down for the night.
Today’s distance / 今日の走行距離: 60.5km
Average speed / 平均速度: 12.4km/h
Time on skateboard / 走行時間: 4h 46m
Total skateboarding distance to date / 今までスケボで走った距離: 612.38km (plus 428.5km)
Total cycling distance to date / 今まで自転車で走った距離: 11,800km
My sleep on the soft leaves was sweet. I woke to the sun shining through the leaves and birds chirping. Perfect.
The scenery for the most part of today was quintessential Holland.
Skating can be tough however in the villages. Annoying paving stones that look pretty, are not much fun for skating on. At times like this, it is neccesary to just knuckle down and trudge onwards at a slower pace.
And I suppose it is time to intorduce some of my new favourite foods, courtesy of this wonderful country.
On the left is Apple Spread. On its own it tastes somewhat like malt molasses, but spread on bread, it is a moreish delight. I can easily polish off a whole loaf of bread if I have this wonderful goop to plaster on it.
On the right is something that I first experienced in Switzerland when working at the international outdoor education camps. Some teachers from The Netherlands brought some of these waffle things for us staff to taste, and I was hooked. They come in packs of 10. A small, heavy package filled with waffley caramelly wonder. It is extremely difficult not to eat more than three or four waffles in one go. Extreme self discipline is required not to over indulge.
As soon as I entered Belgium the rain started. It rained on and off all afternoon. Not nice.
Once again the border was a non-event. Non-existant even. The generous cycle paths disappeared also. The contrast between Belgium and The Netherlands was stark. Whereas the homes in The Netherlands were well kept and neat, the houses in Belgium were tatty. The roads were less cycle friendly. It was raining.
At Turnhout, I decided to get off the roads and head along the Dessel-Schoten Canal, a small canal leading west towards The Netherlands. Basically, this route is a direct route west that cuts across the north of Belgium.
Towards early evening, the rain go worse, and just as I thought that I would be rained out, I spied an old building. That would be my shelter for the night.
On the phsycological warfare of human powered travel, I have made some adjustments. I no longer measure progress by distance. I now measure my progress by time. My daily goal now is to skate for five and a half hours. If I skate for more, good. Just so long as I make that time. Usually, this equates to at least 60km covered.
Thinking in terms of time rather than distance is a big advantage metally. To tell myself ‘I need to do 10km more’, is quite a big burden. But to tell myself to skate for another 1 hour, at whatever pace, slow or fast, carries much less burden.
So today I didn’t quite make my goal of five and a half hours. But I can live with that.
By 8pm I was cold, so got into my sleeping bag and tried to sleep. Sleep was long in coming, and when I eventually woke up at 5am the nex morning, I was ready to leave the cold empty building.
Today’s distance / 今日の走行距離: 80.4km
Average speed / 平均速度: 12.4km/h
Time on skateboard / 走行時間: 6h 28m
Total skateboarding distance to date / 今までスケボで走った距離: 547.35km (plus 428.5km)
Total cycling distance to date / 今まで自転車で走った距離: 11,800km
It was a great sleep last night. Sleeping on hay is just as comfy as any mattress…
This morning was a morning of great anticipation for The Netherlands. The Netherlands will be the last country I travel through on the Eurasian continent on my way to England. This is it. This is the last country!
I entered The Netherlands with little fanfare however. My visions of joyfully handing my passport over to the border control for my last stamp of the continent were not fulfilled. The only evidence of a border was a sign indicating that I was now in The Netherlands. Talk about boring.
Nonetheless, The Netherlands has a great feeling about it. Smooth cycle paths, ordered and neat villages, fine clipped front yards, lowlying swamps and flat, flat, flat roads.
I did discover however that the rumour that The Netherlands is windy is indeed true. For most of the afternoon I battled a stiff westerly in my face. This would become a common thing as I travelled across the country.
The wind died down however in the evening, allowing me to make good progress through the countryside, meeting some of the natives.
The last few kilometers of the day was on one of the smoothest, hardest surfaces I have skated on to date. A runway-grade concrete cycle path projected me onwards to a nice thicket where I slept under a tree for the night, after a big six and a half hour day.
