Day 167 – From Ilgadargi Pass to 11km from Ardahan (English Summary)

Today’s distance / 今日の距離: 56.78km
Riding time / 時間: 4h 22m
Average speed / 平均速度: 12.9km/h
Total distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 1546.9.0km (plus 4200km)

English Summary: Freaking dogs! I have not encountered such ferocious dogs anywhere that compare with the ones here in Turkey. They are massive, they sometimes run at full speed for over 300m to get to me, and they come in packs. Never have I been so afraid of being seriously injured in my life. For now I have detatched my flag pole to use as defense, and am going to purchase a big knife should things get sticky.


Stone hut for the night on Ilgatargi Pass (2,400m), Turkey


し かし、坂道の喜びはすぐ消えました。なぜなら、トルコは世界一危ない犬がいるから。今までの道で経験したことないferociousな犬が町に入ったら次 々と襲ってきます。しかも、今までの犬と違って、時に300m以上離れたところから必死に走ってきます。その走り方・・・完全に僕を殺そうと思っているよ うな走り方です。暴走です。

そして1匹ではなくて、トルコの犬は群でやってきます。今日僕がのぼり坂を登っている途中に6匹の大きな犬が やってきて、歯を示しながら必死に吠えていました。坂道なので、自転車のスピードでは逃げることができない。ヘルメットを外して犬達にswing atする。1回1匹に口に強くあたりました。それでも犬が吠えつづける。





Icy roads, near Damal, Turkey

This oven could hold 255 loaves! Damal, Turkey

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10 thoughts on “Day 167 – From Ilgadargi Pass to 11km from Ardahan (English Summary)

  • Aunty Jenny

    So are the dogs wild, or do they actually belong to people? they obviously don't have to keep them of the streets over there!

  • Rob Thomson Post author

    Aunty Jenny, it appears that the dogs belong to people, and are used as guard/fighting dogs. Many of the dogs have their ears cut off, so that they don't get ripped off in fights.

  • Rob Thomson Post author

    Kirk, I think I have worked out the dogs. Most of the time, they are not interested in eating me. They are just letting me know not to come any closer to their house…mind you, the aluminium pole I have is proving to be very effective. Wave it in their faces and they get the idea not to come any closer.

  • rob

    Hi Rob, its Rob. Still faffing in Eastern China whilst you are out there having it. Word on dogs if you fancy trying it out. I spent months trying to outrun them in Hunan Province. The best thing I ever did was stop and shout like hell, throw stones at them and generally be violent. Good idea on the aluminium upgrade. A flag pole just doesn't cut it does it !

    Good Luck

  • Rob Thomson Post author

    Rob, I have discovered that just hitting the ground with the aluminium pole is enough to let the hounds know that if they get close enough they'll get a wholloping. Kind of disappointing though. I am getting quite keen on giving a hound a good smack one of these days. Have even tried slowing down to get one close enough.

  • Paul Gracey

    Hi Rob,

    When I crossed the U.S.A. on my Lightning F-40 Faired Recumbent in 2000 I was chased by large dogs often. Without exposed legs to bite at, they gave up in frustration. I wouldn't recommend a full fairing for your route, but where the roads are well paved they are excellent. Warmer, easier on the flats and faster. I carried about the same load you re carrying. The HP is a great bike too, I used one in England for a much shorter tour.

  • Rob Thomson Post author

    Paul, I would be interested in what kind of average speeds you did on the 2000 trip. I do realise that it depends greatly on terrain, but do you have some sort of idea of averages for the trip?