November 16th, 2006 | categorizilation: all categories,Uzbekistan
Out of that noisy city that is Tashkent and back to the niceness that is Samarkand. I do not plan on being here for long however. Tomorrow I head for east of Samarkand. About 200km east is a national park…I will get back to you on the name of it, but I will head there and then head to Tashkent again by bike from there.
The reason for all this galavanting is because it takes 10 days for my Turkmenistan visa to be issued. Therefore, I have to wait until the 24th of November before I can pick it up from Tashkent. I will make my way to Tashkent slowly, taking in the sights, and then catch a train back to Samarkand once I have picked up my visa. From Samarkand it is off to Bukhara, another ancient Silk Road city, about 300km from Samarkand.
Oh, and here is a photo of my current look. I call it the ‘Mujahed Mop’.
Eatery at a bazaar in Samarkand.
November 14th, 2006 | categorizilation: all categories,Uzbekistan
Quick update from Tashkent.
November 11th, 2006 | categorizilation: all categories,highlights,Tajikistan,vids
Just spending most of the day playing here in the internet cafe. Check out some video footage of the Anzob Tunnel in Tajikistan below:
(This will take you to my YouTube.com page)
Also uploaded recently was footage of a cool water powered flour mill I saw while in Langar in the Wakhan Valley (video below) in Tajikistan. Glad I took this footage, because that week or so spent in the Wakhan Valley is a bit of a blur (sick, weak, tired).
And one last thing – a photo taken by a Brazillian travel reporter while travelling along the Pamir Highway near Alichur. I’ve seen that guy somewhere before…
November 10th, 2006 | categorizilation: all categories,Uzbekistan
After a quick 2 hour ride, I am now in Samarkand, the famous ancient Silk Road city. It certainly does not disappoint with the architecture.
I am staying at Bahodir’s Bed and Breakfast, a nice youth hostel in Samarkand that gets many foreign travellers. At present however it is almost empty. I am here at a good time of year – cool days and not too many tourists clogging the streets.
November 9th, 2006 | categorizilation: all categories,Tajikistan
English Summary:Â Had another run in with border guards today (the last time was when leaving Kyrgyzstan). The Tajikistan customs official wanted US$10 for registry entry. I told him that I had not been charged for such a thing in the last five border crossings so why now? Upon hearing this he changed his story, and pointed to official charges for exporting vehicles. He stabbed a fat finger at the motorcycle entry. I almost laughed at him. I gently explained that it was a bicycle, and that he should have realised that as he watched me arrive. So once again no money for the border guard. By the way, my visa for Uzbekistan starts tomorrow (10th of Nov). The Uzbekistan immigration officials were too caught up in the novelty of my bicycle to notice however, so I am now in Uzbekistan a day earlier than my visa officially allows. Staying at Nazar’s place. Random guy I met along the road.
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Motorcycle – Duty US$10
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November 8th, 2006 | categorizilation: all categories,Tajikistan
Infuriated at the slow internet at apparently the best internet joint in town (the Telecom building), I left Penjikent at around 2pm after spending four hours just to do a few days worth of updates on this website. I hope New Zealand gets it’s act together and sorts out some fast cheap broadband internet before I get back…
The goal for today was to cycle the 20 or so kilometers from Penjikent to the Tajikistan/Uzbekistan border. A lovely young lass from the States (Aya – researching traiditional music and spirituality in the Pamiri peoples of Tajikistan) who I met on the Pamir Highway and lives in Dushanbe had organised for me a homestay with a Tajik family who live right on the border with Uzbekistan.
It was an easy ride, with a tail wind and smooth road to the border.
This 20km stretch of road had a slightly erie feel to it. It was perhaps the smoothest road I have experienced in Tajikistan so far, but had more children playing hopscotch on it than it had cars on it. It really did feel like the forgotten edge of a very poor country. Which is what it is…
The Istam family is a delight,, including their massive friendly smoochy dog. Istam himself is a taxi driver, sometimes going as far as Moscow. He is a big man, the evidence of a rather physically sedentary profession.
November 7th, 2006 | categorizilation: all categories,Tajikistan
Distance / è·é›¢ï¼š 80km
Time / 時間: 07:30 – 15:00
Ascent / 上り: 700m
Descent / 下り: 1065m
Distance to date / 今日ã¾ã§ã®ç©ç®—è·é›¢ï¼š 4060km
Great day of cycling.
November 6th, 2006 | categorizilation: all categories,Tajikistan
Distance / è·é›¢ï¼š 60km
Time / 時間: 06:30 – 17:00
Ascent / 上り: 570m
Descent / 下り: 830m
Distance to date / 今日ã¾ã§ã®ç©ç®—è·é›¢ï¼š 3980km日本語è¦ç´„:一日ç‹ã„è°·ã«èµ°ã£ã¦ã„ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚途ä¸ã«å°ã•ã„町ãŒãŸãã•ã‚“ã‚ã£ã¦ã€é£Ÿã¹ãŸã„ã‚‚ã®ãŒä»¥å¤–ã«è²·ãˆã¾ã—ãŸã€‚今日もテントãªã—ã§å¯ã¦ã„ã¾ã™ã€‚
I didn’t pitch my tent last night. I just slept in an apricot orchard under a leaf-less tree. Therefore I woke up in the morning with dew on the outside of my sleeping bag. There was dew frozen on my bike, so you can imagine how keen I was to get out of my nice warm sleeping bag…
I must say that I am feeling very good about this whole cycling thing. I am enjoying the uphills, loving the downhills, feeling strong on the flat, and even being relatively friendlly to the locals when they are the 1 kigillionth person to ask ‘Where are you from? Where are you going? How much does your bike cost? (Standard answer US$500) etc etc.
I think this has much to do with the good rest I had in Dushanbe, but also to do with the fact that I am now free from the lingering thought that ‘I must get over the Pamirs before the snow comes!’ Also, this whole travelling on a bicycle without a speedo thing is really great. No nice average speed data to get uptight about. I am able to just go at my own pace, without a screen telling me how incredibly slow I am going up the hills.
As for the terrain here, I am travelling along an extremely narrow valley/gorge, sometimes only tens of metres across, only widening after the rock walls extend 100m or so upwards. A lot of ups and downs where the road climbs over large bluffs, but for every metre climbed, there is the thought that the river is going down, so I must eventually go down too.
There are plenty of places to either eat or buy food along this road from Dushanbe to Penjikent. After near to two months in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan on roads that offer only major cities with not much in between, it is a luxury to be able to pull into a (very basic) cafe and order a plate full of meat (the standard fare). My yoghurt addiction is also well attended to, with well stocked stores along the way.
Tonight also I am sleeping under the stars. It appears dryer here, so hopefully my sleeping bag won’t get dewed.
November 5th, 2006 | categorizilation: all categories,Tajikistan
Distance / è·é›¢ï¼š 80km
Time / 時間: 07:30 – 22:00
Ascent / 上り: 1465m
Descent / 下り: 1165m
Distance to date / 今日ã¾ã§ã®ç©ç®—è·é›¢ï¼š 3920kmEnglish Summary: Somebody shoot me. I seem to have this reflex action that atracts me to dangerous places. Or perhaps I am not alone in this. If you had the choice between a 3300m snowy pass, or a 5km unlit, half completed, flooded, under construction tunnel under the Tajikistan mountains, which would you choose? I chose the Anzob tunnel, and it was awesome. Take a look at the pics below (video coming soon). Absolute madness. I had to sign a disclaimer at the entrance that waived the construction company of any responsibility should I be injured due to rock fall. And get this. This Anzab Tunnel was officially opened by the President of Tajikistan a month ago. Freaking madness I tell you. At one point I was cycling through knee deep water. You should have seen the expressions on the faces of the workers as I came out the other end of the tunnel. If you are in the area, you have to do it. Just don’t forget your helmet (think of it as caving).
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November 5th, 2006 | categorizilation: all categories,Tajikistan
Right’o then. Off I go. In the direction of Penjikent, the last major town in Tajikistan before the Uzbekistan border. My Uzbek visa starts on the 10th of November, so I’ve got heaps of time to get myself over the 3300m Anzob pass (Dushanbe – my present location -Â is at 900m) and across the 260km to Penjikent.
I hope that there is internet access in Penjikent, but you never know in Tajikistan…therefore, my next update could either be from Penjikent (3-4 days time), or from Samarkand – famous Silk Road city -Â in Uzbekistan, which would be 8-10 days from today.
Take care, and why not bike to work today?
Random Dushanbe pics: