August 24th, 2013 | categorizilation: all categories,equipment,Post-2008
Get in and support an awesome product for keeping people who longboard for transport clean and dry – Wheel Shields: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1522548247/wheel-shields-longboarding-technology
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Way back in 2008, I was in western China sitting in a stifling internet cafe. I had already skated over 6,000 miles (9,600km) across the US and Europe, but in the previous days, I had spent a couple of days skating on wet roads, getting legs covered in road grime, yak shit, and slug guts. Some of the roads were also hard-packed dirt, which were still skateable when they were wet, but caused havoc on my shoes and clothes. This was a super frustrating issue. Sure, dirty pants and dripping wet shoes can be cool. But not when you want to sit down at a restaurant, cafe, internet cafe, someone’s chair in their house, etc.
Sitting in that internet cafe, I thought up an idea for a fender/mudguard setup for a longboard. Below is the sketch I did in 2008, to explain the idea to my product-designer brother. “Can it be done?” I asked. He was confident that it could be done, but it would require a lot of work prototyping before a decent device could be created. The idea promptly got put in the too-hard-basket.
Fast forward to 2012. I get an email out of the blue from Chase Kaczmarek from the US, asking for my opinion about his invention called Wheel Shields. He was developing them into a marketable product. I said that they are brilliant. A year later, he’s got a very elegant, refined product ready to produce. The one thing he’s not got is money to create the tooling to mass produce them. That’s where his Kickstarter Campaign comes in: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1522548247/wheel-shields-longboarding-technology.
He needs US$25,000. He’s raised just over US$14,000 so far, with 11 days left in his fund-raising campaign. I’ve already pledged my support by ordering a set. I really want to get my set of Wheel Shields. It will mean that skating to school and work will be a reliable option, without having to worry about rain during the day creating wet roads. So do get in there and support a great idea and the masses of work that has gone into making them work: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1522548247/wheel-shields-longboarding-technology.
To be honest, I think for purely distance skaters, who are not concerned with wheelbite or ‘shoe-bite’ or stand-on-wheels-tricks, they are a little bit on the over-engineered side. For just ‘fender’ or mudguard applications, light plastic would be fine. But still, I do stand by my words: Wheel Shields are brilliant. Hands down the biggest innovation in longboarding in a long time. I wish I had Wheel Shields when I skated across the US, Europe and China. Wheel Shields have changed the longboard transportation paradigm forever. They are an elegant solution to a frustrating problem.
* The quote above was edited slightly on Chase’s Kickstarter page to keep things brief.
** I should also mention that I am in no way officially associated with Wheel Shields, or receiving compensation from them…
August 9th, 2013 | categorizilation: all categories,Hokkaido (Japan),Post-2008,Sapporo,Technology
Following on from my previous post describing how to make a home-made DIY bicycle dynamo-hub USB charger, I have updated the old PVC-pipe container version (at the end of the last post). I removed the innards and transferred them to something more interesting: a clear acrylic pipe, with corks in the ends.
As you can see, I have also replaced the micro-USB plug with a female USB-A socket, so that I can plug any USB-type cord into it (micro-USB, mini-USB, iPhone-charger-USB, etc). This particular version is not particularly weather-tight. The actual size of it is larger than the previous shrink-wrapped version also. But it is certainly smaller than the PVC-pipe version, and should serve me well.
Haidee and I are heading off on a two-week cycle tour starting in a couple of days, so both chargers will get a thorough testing 
August 6th, 2013 | categorizilation: all categories,equipment,Hokkaido (Japan),Japan,Post-2008
本投稿では、ハブダイナモ搭載の自転車に使える、スマートホン用のUSB充電器の作り方を紹介します。アイディア自体はMr. Howdy, Arenddeboer.comとPeterから来ていますが、彼らのインストラクションでは、回路図がある程度読めないとワケがつかみにくいです。私自身は回路図が読めないので、同じように回路が読めない人間のためにできるだけ簡単にここで説明します。
私が作ったダイナモハブ用スマートホン充電器（軽さ：29g）
今回作る充電器の概要
総費用：1,500円程度（部品のみで、半田ごてなどの必要な工具は含まない）
重さ：29g
耐候性：有り
出力：5V 1A DC (USB標準）
入力：6V AC (ほとんどの自転車ハブダイナモはこれにあたる）
充電効率：ソニーExperia Z（わりとバッテリー容量の多い（2330mAh）スマートホン）を、走る1kmごとに1％充電していく（スマホンの電源がOFFの状態）
充電開始時速：5.5km/h
充電器の「役割」
パソコンやコンセントでスマホンを充電するときに、スマホンに流れてくる電力は直流（DC）で電圧は5Vとなっています。これはUSB標準の電圧です。しかし、自転車のハブダイナモが出力する電力は交流（AC）で6Vです。 そのままスマホンの充電に使えないわけです。よって、ダイナモハブの6V（AC）を、パソコンなどのUSBから出力される電力と同様の電力（5V（DC））に変換させる必要があります。この充電器がその役目を果たします。
注意：私はほんの少ししか、電子工作に関する知識はありません。本充電器を今まで1,000kmほどの自転車ツーリングで使い続けていて問題は全くなかったのですが、見逃しているところがあるかもしれません。そのため、この充電器を使うことによってあなたが大事にしている電子機器が壊されてしまう可能性がゼロとは言い切れません。本充電器のご使用は自己責任でお願いします。自己で責任を負うのは嫌だという方はこれらの市販自転車用USB充電器のご購入をお勧めします：Bright Light Revolution（非常に格安だと思います）、Busch+Muller Luxos IQ2、ToutTerrain Plug II。
用意するな部品（札幌市内は、ストリップボード以外にはすべて梅澤無線電機から入手可能）
ステップ１
ストリップボードを4穴ⅹ25穴で長細く切ります。切り方は、カッターで両面に切り目を引いて、割ります。
ステップ２
用意した４ｘ２５の基板に部品を並べていきます。コンデンサの足は、長いほうが陽（＋）、短いほうが陰（－）。写真をクリックすると拡大されます。
ステップ３
ブリッジ整流器を設置する。このステップにおいても、分極（＋と―の位置）を注して設置しましょう。
そうすると今の段階では上から見ると以下のように見えているはずです。
このようになっているのであれば、次に部品を半田付けして固定して行きます。部品の過熱に注意するとともに、並列になっているメッキを横断的に半田が流れないように注意します。
そうすると以下のように見えるはずです。メッキが削られている箇所がいくつかありますが、下の方の箇所のみメッキを削ります（入力電気が直接レギュレーターに流れないように防ぐために削ります）。写真に写っている他の箇所は無視してもOKです。5mmのドリルで手回しで削ることができます）。
ステップ４
マイクロUSB端子を準備します。USB→マイクロUSBケーブルを切ります。USBの大きい方は不要です。USBケーブルの内側はたいていの場合は黒（－）、赤（＋）、白（データ）となっています。今回はデータは要らないので、短く切っちゃいます。時には陰の方はグリーン色になっている場合があります。
ステップ５
マイクロUSBケーブルを基板に固定する前に、適切な容器を探しましょう。ホームセンターに行ってウロウロして探すのもアリですが、今回の基板をきれいに収納するのはホームセンター（ビバホーム）で見つけた「テトラ テスト試験紙 pH」の缶です。同じような寸法のアルミパイプでも有りでしょう。テトラの缶を使う場合、エンドキャップに穴をあけてケーブルひねり防止のグロメッとを入れるとわりときれいに出来上がります。
ステップ６
ハブダイナモに接続するケーブルとスマホンに接続するマイクロUSBケーブルを容器の穴に入れ、基板に固定します。まずはマイクロUSBケーブルの方です。ここでの分極が大事です！赤線が＋の列に、黒が―の列に固定します。
次に、ダイナモハブに接続するケーブルを付けます。ここでの分極は関係ないです。ブリッジ整流器ちゃんがちゃんと整理してくれます。
ステップ７
ステップ５で見つけた容器に基板を設置します。耐候性を向上させるためのシーラントを付ける前に、この段階に一度自転車に接続しスマホンも接続してちゃんと動きているかどうかを確かめるといいでしょう。
ステップ８
このステップが必ず必要でもありませんが、耐候性を万全にするために、熱収縮チューブを巻きます。
ステップ９
自転車への取り付けが簡単にするために、ハブダイナモへのケーブルにコネクターを付けました。私が実際にこの充電器を使うのは年に2回程度ですので、使っていない時は取り外したいです。そのため、簡単なコネクターを付けました。
以上で、29gという軽さの自転車用のUSB充電器ができました。
実際に使ってみて・・・
今回の自作USB充電器は実は２台目です（回路や部品は全く同じ）。第一回目には、容器としてPVCパイプを使っていました。大変大きくてダサいです。しかし、効率性などでいうと今回のバージョンと一緒です。ソニーのExperiaZスマホンを、走行１ｋｍごとに１％充電できます（電源OFFの状態）。ExperiaZのバッテリー容量が大きい（2230mAh）なので、バッテリーが比較的に小さいiPhoneのようなスマホンなら1kmごとに２％程度の充電ができるかもしれません。
いずれにしても、一日の自転車ツーリングでスマホンのバッテリーをいっぱいまで充電してくれます。注意しなくてはならないのは、スマホンの画面の電力の消費が大変多いですので、画面がオンでかつGPSを使うGoogle Mapsなどのアプリを実行のままで走行すると、充電器を指してもバッテリーは減ってしまいます（充電器を指していないよりも消費が少なくなるのですが）。
August 4th, 2013 | categorizilation: all categories,equipment,Hokkaido (Japan),Post-2008,Technology
In this post I describe how I made a USB smartphone charger for a hub-dynamo-equipped bicycle. The idea came from multiple sources, including Mr. Howdy, Arenddeboer.com, and Peter. But they assume the person making the charger knows how to read a circuit diagram. I cannot understand a circuit diagram. If you’re like me, then this blog post is for you.
The rundown:
Total cost: approx. US$15 (parts only; you need tools such as soldering iron etc.)
Weight: 29 grams
Weatherproof: Yes
Output: 5 volts DC (USB standard)
Input: 6 volts AC
Efficiency: Will charge a Sony Experia Z smartphone at a rate of approximately 1% per 1km (with the smartphone turned off).
Charge start: 5.5km/h
What this device does
When charging your smartphone using a wall charger or your laptop’s USB, the electricity going into your phone is direct current (DC) at 5 volts. A bicycle dynamo hub, however, usually creates electricity in the form of alternating current (AC), at 6 volts. So, we’ve got to change the electricity created by the dynamo hub (6V AC) into the same type as what comes out of your smartphone wall charger or your laptop’s USB (5V DC). That’s what this device does.
Disclaimer: I know nothing about electronics. This charger has worked well for me so far (about 1,000km of cycle touring), but it may turn on you and eat your smartphone’s innards alive, rendering it a useless shell. If you’d rather let someone else take the responsibility for your delicate electronics, check out the Bright-Bike Revolution (amazing value for a solid charger) or the Busch & Mueller Luxos IQ2 headlight with USB charging built in, or the Tout-Terrain Plug II.
What you need:
Step 1
Cut the veroboard (stripboard) into an oblong, 4 holes wide by approximately 25 holes long. I did this by scoring the board with a craft knife on both sides and then snapping it.
Step 2
Start to populate your board. On the capacitors, the long leg is positive. Click on the photos for a larger version.
Step 3
This step can be tricky…aligning the bridge rectifier in place. Note the polarity (positioning of the negative and positive legs).
Looking from the top, your board should now look something like this.
You can now go about carefully soldering the parts in place at the rear of the board. Take care not to overheat the parts, and make sure not to ‘connect’ any of the copper strips on the stripboard with stray bits of solder.
Post-soldering should look something like below. Ignore all the drill-marks, except for the one at the bottom. You need that one to stop current going directly to the regulator (LM2940). Holes can be made by hand-turning a 5mm drill bit.
Step 4
Prepare your micro-USB connector by butchering a cheap USB to micro-USB cable, discarding the big USB end. We will attach this to the circuit-board, and it will plug into your smartphone. Frustratingly, USB cable inner wire colors are sometimes different (like, green for negative). But most of the time, they will be red (positive), black (negative) and white (data). You won’t be needing the white wire, so you can cut it short.
Step 5
Before attaching the micro-USB cable to the circuit-board, a suitable case needs to be found. I happened to have an old fish-tank PH level tester container hanging around that was a perfect size.
Step 6
Container sorted, time to thread the cables through the openings and solder them to the circuit board. I first attached the micro-USB cable. Red on the positive line, black on the negative line.
Next, attach the wires that will run from the dynamo hub. The polarity (negative and positive direction) here doesn’t matter at all; the bridge rectifier has magic fairies inside that sort all that out.
Step 7
Install the circuit board in a suitable container. Before sealing the container up properly, now may be a good time to hook the unit up to a dynamo hub and smartphone to check that everything is working.
Step 8
This step is not essential, but I wanted to make this unit as weather-proof as possible. Using a couple of different size heat-shrink tubing, I covered the whole thing up, making it very weather-proof.
Step 9
I wanted to be able to easily attach and remove the charger from my bike. The only time I use it is when I am cycle touring (about twice a year). This was easily done by using simple male/female connectors. The wire running from my hub to the female connectors is on my bike all the time, and I can just connect the charger when I need to.
So there you have it. A weather-sealed USB charger, powered by a bicycle dynamo hub. It weighs in at 29 grams. Just lovely.
Performance in the real world
This is the second charger I have made (using the exact same circuitry). The first one ended up in a PVC pipe casing, which is ugly and bulky. It works exactly the same as this new slick-cased version. Using the PVC-pipe-case version, I was able to get around 1% charge for every 1km pedaled on a laden, flat-terrain four-day cycle tour (with the phone powered off). That was charging a Sony Experia Z smartphone, which has a very large battery (2330ｍAh). With an iPhone, with its smaller 1440mAh, this might be more like 2% charge per 1km.
In any case, with the phone powered off, it will charge fully over a full day of cycling. It does not put out enough charge to keep up with intensive computing tasks like Google Map Navigation. That is, with the screen on all the time, plus the GPS running, the battery will still run down even while charging.
My wife has claimed this new version as her own, so I am still stuck with the PVC pipe version. On her bike, this is the set up we have at present (she doesn’t use a handlear bag). Here, the charger is attached using a cable tie, in the photo at the top of this post, we have attached a velcro strap, which will make attaching/removing the charger easier.
